Contributed by Cassiane Bohn Au, Global Green Chemistry Innovation and Network Program Assistant at Yale University
On September 28, 2024, California passed Senate Bill 707 (SB-707), the Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024. The bill is a huge milestone in addressing textile pollution and sets an example to other states in the U.S. to pass similar policies.
Under SB-707, “a producer of apparel or textile articles are required to join or form a producer responsibility organization (PRO) – an organization responsible for managing product end-of-life tasks like waste collection on behalf of producers – which must be approved by California’s Department of Resources Recycling and Recovery by July 1, 2026. Once approved, regulations are expected to be implemented no earlier than July 1, 2028. PROs must submit a comprehensive plan for approval addressing collection, transportation, repair, sorting, and recycling, revised every five years. Violations of the plan can lead to penalties of up to $50,000 per day. Annual reports are also required and must be truthful to avoid penalties. By establishing a detailed plan for textile recovery, the bill intends to prevent environmental impacts related to reducing textile pollution.
The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 seeks to improve circularity at all stages of a product’s life cycle, such as repairing and reusing fibers to manufacture new products. This includes managing PFAS, commonly used waterproofing agents now recognized for harmful effects on human health. Under SB-707, PROs would have to develop strategies to address PFAS and other chemicals to prevent further contamination in the recycling process. Given the challenges of complying with the Responsible Textile Recovery Act, PROs will have to rethink how apparel is made by introducing safer alternatives to traditional materials with minimal to no environmental impacts.
Over the past few years, a growing number of startups have focused on textile recycling and PFAS-free materials. Here are just a few examples that you can find in our Safer Alternatives database:
- Ambercyle is developing Cycora®, a recycling polyester technology to extract and purify raw materials to the molecular level.
- Amphico is creating Amphitex™, a PFAS-free alternative to traditional waterproof and breathable textiles in outdoor gear.
- Beyond Surface Technology is developing miDori® bioWick, a bio-based textile made with plant seeds, natural waxes, and microalgae to be used in activewear garments.
- Circ is creating a hydrothermal process that separates cotton and polyester fabrics from polycotton waste and returns them to the raw material stage.
- Evrnu® has developed Nucyl®, a fiber regenerated from cotton textile waste.
- Organotex is developing OrganoClick®, a technology mimicking water-repellent properties of plant leaves.
- Worn Again is developing a textile recycling process that separates, decontaminates, and recaptures raw materials from mixed fibers.
We encourage you to explore our database and discover other technologies under the Textile/Textile Processing category. You can also add technologies likely to prevent textile pollution and reduce environmental impacts caused by the fashion industry by creating a free account and clicking the “Submit a Safer Alternative” button.
As apparel companies comply with California’s SB-707, more technologies will emerge and transform the future of textile recovery. These technological advances, based on green chemistry principles, will pave the way for a more sustainable fashion industry.
