ICTYOS, a French startup, combines traditional tanning techniques with an eco-responsible approach by transforming fish skins from the food industry into high-quality sea leather. The company selects premium fish skins from French agri-food partners and relies on local networks to minimize its carbon footprint and ensure supply traceability. By repurposing skins that would otherwise be discarded, ICTYOS promotes upcycling and utilizes vegetable tannins from leaves, roots, or fruits to minimize the impacts of deforestation.
The production process at ICTYOS involves six key steps. First, fish skins are meticulously selected based on the uniformity of their grain and scales. In the second step, the skins are placed in a drum, where they undergo river baths to purify and prepare them for tanning, while scales are removed.
The third step, tanning, is crucial for ensuring the skin's durability and preservation. Organic tannins such as mimosa, chestnut, or quebracho are used depending on the desired attributes like softness, resistance, and color. In the fourth stage, the leather is conditioned to achieve the right suppleness and color. After dyeing, the leather is matured, framed, and air-dried.
The fifth step involves relaxing the leather by passing it through a softening machine. Pressure is applied on the leather using the rounded blades of a jerking wheel. The final stage, finishing, includes meticulous treatments to give the leather a bright or matte finish and enhance its durability.
ICTYOS's marine leathers, including Squama (scaled salmon), sturgeon, and trout leathers, are produced in their Lyon tannery and comply with the European REACH standard, ensuring the absence of harmful, toxic or polluting substances throughout the process.
